Umrah asal mein saadat, istetaat aur shoq ka safar hai. Har namaaz se ghantay dedh pehle har simt se zaair kashaan kashaan sooye haram rawan nazar aate hain jaise muztarib lehren saahil ki taraf, jaise shehad ki makhian chhatte ki janib. Sarmasti aur khud faraamushi ka aalam, har nigah Khuda ke ghar ki mutlaashi. Bulandi se dekhein to neeche insani saroon ka samundar, hichkole khate lahron ki soorat mein dikhayi deta hai. Is ke saath ek musheer kun suti bhanbhanaahat. Islam ki khashadgi aur wasa'at rawadari aur tanau' ka andaza sirf haram Ka'bah mein hota hai. Apne ird gird dekhein to mulk mulk ka zaair apne apne tareeqay par aur apne apne andaaz mein namaaz ada kar raha hai. Goya sab ki namaaz sahih hai aur qabool ho rahi hai. Koi doosre par aitraz nahi karta. Yeh bardasht Saudi police ke khauf se nahi hai, balke haram ki 'azmat, deen ki wasa'at aur musalman ki izzat ka taqaza hai. 'Ibadat ke sare tareeqay, Khuda ko pukarne ke kul saliqe, qiyam o ruku' aur sujood o tahiyat ke tamam andaaz— Islam hain. Goya namaaz aur ibadat ke yeh tamam asaaleeb Nabi Akramﷺ ke muqtadir sahaba karam se mansoob hain aur sunnat ki shakal mein yahan tak pahunchey hain. Yahan koi doosre ki takfeer nahi karta. Koi doosre ke tareeqay ko mardood nahi kehta. Har kalma go apne andaaz mein apne khaliq se hum kalam hai aur yeh tamam tareeqay bilkul Islam hain. Woh manzar kitna pur kif hota hai jab malayi ya Indonesian musalman auratein ka group yak zaban duaen mang rahe hota hai. Jab ek nojawan Turk bheegi aankhon ke sath apne lehje mein ek dua ki takraar karta hai aur us ke mard aur aurat saathi us ke sath hum awaaz Khuda ki tahmeed o taqdis karte hain, koi rang nahi, koi nasl nahi, koi zubaan nahi. Aaj sab ka Khuda ek, Ka'bah ek aur kalma ek hai. Umrah aur Hajj ki ibadat mein haram ek kliy shai'ra hai. Saudi hukumat ke karobari balke tijarati andaaz ne haram ko charon taraf se char star, panch star unchay unchay hotelon mein ghair diya hai, jin ke nafis toilet ab haram se unchay hain. Ibrahim Khalil Allah ka tameer kardah haram karobari khulajon (Towers) mein dab kar raha hai. Aiseyon ke Vatican ko dekhein to andaza hota hai ke dunya aur madah parast Maghrib ne kaise apne Khudawon ko dunya ke saaye se bacha kar rakha hai. Is basti mein Khuda ka ghar aur pop karobari markazon se mahfuz hain. Albata hum ne shan o shokat, kar o far aur sajdah judh mein zaroor kilisa ki taqlid ki hai. Hamari zahir dari aur zahir parasti ko dekh kar Iqbal bhi pukar utha: Mein na khush o bezaar hoon mar mar ki silon se Mere liye mitti ka haram aur bana do Haram ki safaai o siqai ke kya kehne! Din ke chobees ghantay, haftay ke saat din musalsal safaai, suthrai o chamkaai ka kaam jari rehta hai. Is ki zaroorat bhi hai aur ahmiyat bhi. Is mein sarkar ka naam bhi hai aur aalami shabash bhi. Za'ireen ki tamam tar koshishon ke bawajood haram kabhi bhi ganda nahi hota.Musliman khasosan Pakistani bohot dilchasp aur sada zair hain. Jab kuch sada dil haram se Hazrat Ali Hajweri (Data Ganj Bakhsh) ke naam ki degh baksakte hain toh yeh amar ba'is taajjub na hoga ke woh apne masaail, mushkilat aur hajaton ki tafseel Allah Ta'ala ke naam Urdu aur angrezi mein likhte hain, phir badi tag aur do ke baad yeh darkhwast Khanah Ka'bah ki dehliz par hajr-e-aswad ke andar ya maqam-e-Ibrahim ke nazdeek pesh karte hain. Dauran-e-tawaf ghor se dekhein to maloom hota hai ke haram ke khadim thorhi thorhi der ke baad unhi darkhwaston se kachre ke drum bhar kar bahar kooday mein phenkte hain. Shayad sada lohuon ke nazdeek Allah Miyan unke peer o murshid ki tarah kale kothay ke andar mashgool ibadat hain, unhein unki nigaah aur tawajjuh darkar hai. Tawaf mukammal karne ke baad zair haram mein do nafal ada karta hai. Is ke baad woh zam zam ke liye aata hai. Yahan plastic ke bade bade coolron mein thanda aur sada ab zam zam thermos pur glasson mein piya jata hai. Peene ke baad zair apna chehra, sir, daadi aur jism tar karte hain aur itna tar karte hain ke wahan aam aadmi phisalne se bimushkil bach pata hai. Neeche na pani jazb karne wala qalin hai aur na phisalne se bachne ka koi tareeqa. Buzurgon aur zaeefon ki haddiyan to pehle hi kamzor hoti hain. Saudi fuqaha ke fatawa ki roshni mein ab saee ki jagah do manzilon par mehiet hai, ek farshi aur do balai manzilen. Farsh ke donon janib Safa aur Marwa ki chotiyo ke patthar baqi rahne diye gaye hain. Yeh patthar pehli aur doosri manzil se neeche dikhate hain. Zaireen ki ek thori si tadad un tedhe medhe aur khurdare patthron par bila jazb nafal pardhti nazar aati hai. Hairani is baat par hui ke in namaziyon mein koi Pakistani nahi tha. Saudiyon ne in patthron par ek sakht qisam ka paint bicha rakha hai jis ki wajah se patthron ke tukde ukhaar na mumkin raha hai, warna bachi kachi pahadiyan ab tak bator tabarruk taqseem ho chuki hoti thi. Ka'bah ke charon taraf kayi kayi meter tak siyah patthar se aardi tarchi lakeeren lagayi gayi hain. Yeh lakeeren haram ke andar, haram ke bahar, buraamadon mein saee ke maqam par farz namaz ke waqt Ka'bah ki taraf munh karne aur safain sahi bandhne ke liye wasee paimane par lagayi gayi hain. Haram ke andar tausee wa tamaam kaam bhi qabil tawajjuh hai. Kya zaroori hai ke pachas lakh zaireen ke liye tausee ki jaye, jabkeh amalan aisa mumkin nahi hai. Jab haram ke andar kayi manzila matfah ban rahe hain to lazmi hai ke un ke saath haram ke bahar ibadat se mansook zaruriyat aur shehar ke andar itni sahooliyat maqbool hongi jo aaj bhi nakafi hain. Saudi fuqaha ko sochna chahiye ke rafath, fusuq aur jidal ka mahaul aur ehtemal to hujoom ki wajah se barhta jaega aur ibadat ada karna mushkil tar hoti jaegi. Chunanche zaireen ki tadad ko ek maqool had tak mehdood rakhna chahiye. Tausee ke kaam mein qadeem mohalley aur purani bastiyan ghayab horahi hain. Makkah ke qadeem asar ab kitabon aur yaadon ka hissa ban chuke hain. Asar ko baqi rakhne aur dekhne mein koi shirk nazar nahi aata. Haan umrah aur hajj ko mahaz karobar bana dena zaroori ma'yyub hai. Saudi hukoomat ke bhale kaamon mein ek Quran Hakeem ki taba'at aur taqseem bhi hai. Ek mushaf ek hi andaz mein mukhtalif saizoon mein chapaa ja raha hai. Umrah karne walon ko wapsi par koi nuskha muft nahi mil.Ta. Chand nuskhe aise bhi hain jo khasosan Bar-e-Sagheer ke zaireen ki sahulat ke liye alag se chhape gaye hain jin mein ruku ke nishan bhi diye gaye hain. Har siparah alag and bayen safhay se shuru hota hai. Zyadatar nuskhe parah aur ruku ki takhsees ke baghair hain. Is khidmat se ek Quran, ek Rasool aur ek Ummat ka tasawwur pakka hota hai. Aalam-e-Islam mein ek qari takhseem mil rahi hai. Nabeenon ke liye Brail ke nuskhe, kahin kahin English aur Urdu tarjuma bhi hai. Maulana Mahmood Hasan Deobandi ka tarjuma aur Maulana Shabbir Ahmad Usmani ka hashiya ab Saudi hukumat ne chhapna band kar diya hai. Is tarjume mein Surah Al-Fatihah ki ayat 'Iyyaka na'budu wa iyyaka nasta'in' ka hashiya qabil-e-aitraaz tha. Is ghalati ke azale ke sath Brelvi tarjuma par bandish se muamla barabar ho gaya. Kabhi kabhi Urdu literature bhi Haram ke ek stand par rakha jata hai magar zor jadu-tonay aur qabar parasti ki mukhalifat par hota hai? Shayad Pakistani Ahle-Hadith aalam khawateen ke zaeef ko malhooz rakhte hain. Sawal yeh hai ke kya Musalmanon ke siyasi, taleemi, iqtisadi, akhlaqi aur muasharti masail qabil tawajjo nahi jin par mutawazin andaaz mein baat ki jaye? Kya mazid ibadat se tazkiya nafs aur iqaamat-e-deen ka farz sar anjam diya ja sakta hai? Bazahir Saudiya ek ameer aur khushhal mulk hai magar taraqqi aur khushhali ke manazir talash karne padte hain. Naqad kamane wali taxisyan andar bahar se achi halat mein hain taham har jagah unka kiraya driver ki marzi aur mood ke mutabiq hota hai. Meter ka istemal shayad haram hai. Dedh kilometer ke liye taxi das se bees riyal tak charge karti hai jabke petrol aadha riyal fi liter hai. Kisi jagah sarkar ne zaireen ka tahaffuz nahi kiya warna meter par sakhti ki jati ya mukhtalif faslon ke mutabiq fixed kiraye hote. Traffic police poochti hai aur na koi idara check karta hai. Taxi drivers zyadatar Pakistani nazar aate hain jo traffic police se darte toh hain magar be khofi se manmani karte hain. Mumkin hai unhone Saudi traffic police ko Pakistani rang mein rang liya ho. Shehar ke andar zaireen ki rehnumai ke liye badi zubanon mein likhi hui hidayat nazar nahi aati. Chananchah koshish karte hain ke hamesha ek laga bandha raasta hi istemal karein. Tawaf ke doran tamam aqwam aur mumalik ki zaireen mustoorat ke chehre, haath, paon an dhokey thay, bajuz chand ek ke jo ghalbaan Saudiya ke kisi mutshaddad tabqay se taluq rakhti hain. Unki fiqah mein niqab zaroori hai, bashartekah chehre se mas na kare. Haram ke ard-gird taharat aur wuzu ke liye zair zameen jagahen banayi gayi hain. Ek to yahan rush bohat hota hai, doosra lootay ka rawaj nahi. Is ki bajaye toonay ke sath rubber ka lamba sa pipe laga hua hai. Tamam commode farshi hain, kahin kahin buzurgo ya senior shehriyon (kabraal-sin) ke liye nashisti commode bhi maujood hain magar bahut kam. Lekin wahan bhi rubber ka mush ya Saudi shower hai jis ki tez dhaar par control maharat talab hoti hai. Pani se kapray bachana aur mushkil. Haram ke andar tameer ka kaam jari hai. Is tameer ka shor itna mukhal nahi hota jitna buland o bala hotlon ki imaratain zaire ki nigahain mutwajja kar leti hain. Haram mein is tameer ka ek hi maqsad hai ke zyada se zyada zaire haram mein sama sakein, bila se woh sahi manajat kar sakein ya munasib tor par namaz ada kar sakein ya sukoon se tilawat ya nawafil parh sakein. Wasat-iWar kisrat ke liye zair ko hi qeemat chakana hogi. Tamam tameerati karkun bawordi aur ghair-malki musalman hain. Khana sarkari magar tanakhwah wajibi. Koi Saudi tameerati kaam mein kaam karta dikhai nahin deta. Makkah shehar aur is ke pahariyon aur ghateyon ki apni tareekh, apna jamaliyat pasand aur munique maholiat wazan hai. Saudiyon ne shehri sahulaton ke liye jagah jagah pahariyon ko khod dala hai, qadeem asar mita diye aur shehr ka sadiyon purana jalal o jamal ta o bala kardia hai. Ghalti se kisi ko ehteraz karne ki ejazat nahin hai. Hoteling haram se door bhi ho sakti thi aur anay janay ke liye cheeniyo ki tarah kayi manzila rahen banai ja sakti thin magar styanas ho Americi culture ka jis ko mazi se koi sarokar nahin hota, isay sirf aaj ki zarurat aur fori faiday se gharz hoti hai. Haram ke andar tamam tar tahmeed o taqdis, tilawat wazikar ke bawajood awaz azeet-nak nahin hoti, madham si bhanbhanaht tari rahti hai jaise chhatte ke paas shehad ki makhian. Haram ke bahar ya shehr ke andar sirf billyan dikhai deti hain, wo bhi kamzor si. Kutta, kawa, chiriya ki jagah sirf sehatmand kabutar. Ye kabutar pehle sirf naatoun mein udte the, ab taqaddus se arasta aur motape ka shikar hain. Kabutron se viral infection ka khatra hota hai, is liye kabutron ke be tahasha izafay ko roknay ke liye un ki karobari farokht ya nasli mansuba bandi par ghor kiya ja sakta hai. Tawaf karne wale zair do qisam ke hote hain. Ek wo jinhe Umrah ke ahem rukn ke tor par tawaf karna hota hai aur doosre wo jo Masjid Haram mein dakhil hone par tawaf karte hain. Tawaf khud ek ahem ibadat hai. Tawaf ke doran mard aurtein mil kar chakkar katte hain. Jis tarah ek zair doran e tawaf doosre zaireen ka khayal rakhta hai, usi tarah mard aurtein khana khuda ki hazri mein itne magn hote hain ke shaitani khayalat un par asar andaz nahin hote. Tawaf ki ye munfarid khobi bilkay saadat hai jo shahwani alaish ko door rakhti hai. Aurton mardon ke liye alag alag raston ki zarurat mehsoos nahin hoti. Makkah aur Madinah dono shehron ke aam hotelon mein khana nahin milta, zaireen ko bazaar ke khanon yaani restaurants se khana parta hai. Aam tor par dono shehron mein jis tarah narkh yaksan hain usi tarah har jagah khane ka zaiqa aur rang roop bhi yaksan hai. Aisa maloom hota hai jaise ek badi deegh se formula salan har hotel par faraham kiya jata hai. Biryani ka zaiqa aur chicken boti ka size albata juda juda hai magar us ke sath narkh bhi badal jata hai. Khane wale hotel zyada saaf nahin hote. Pehle adayegi ki jati hai phir chat par khana milta hai. Mukhtalif qaumon ke alag alag apne khanay wale hotel bhi hain. Taham har taraf Pakistani khanon ki bahaar nazar ati hai. Shahrah-e-Hijrat Pakistani agent se zaireen bok karne wakt Saudi beopari Makkah aur Madinah mein qayam ke ayyam muqarrar kardeta hai. Zaireen ke qayam aur un ki naqal o harkat Saudi adad o shumar ke sath munsalik hoti hai. Maqasad ye hai ke haramain mein anay jane walon ki tadad had se tajawaz na kare. Khilaf program ek din kiYe izafi qayaam ke baad agle roz Madeena ke liye Makkah ke hotel ko khairbaad kiya. Jo bus nasib mein aayi us ka driver ek khud mast Indonesian nojawan tha. Bus muqarrar waqt se ghanta baad chali aur phir chalti gayi. Hilti hui chhoti aur tang seaten, bus purani aur khatara, musalsal shor, AC qareeban nakara, sehatmand zair phans kar reh gaye. Zehfa ki kamar aur taangein jawaab de gayi. Tareekh-e-Hijrah (Shahrah-e-Hijrat) par safar daroona khwab ban gaya. Makkah aur Madeena ke darmiyan 450 kilometer ki masafat hai. Is ahem aur tareekhi shahrah ke muqable mein Pakistan ki Corine Motorway badarja behtar, araam daa aur mahfooz hai. Is tareekhi shahrah ke jungle tootay hue, kayi jagah sarak na-hamwar, rang-o-rogan se aari. Kayi ghanton ki masafat ke baad bus ne ek manzil par pahunche. Yahan masjid aur restaurant mojood tha, magar zahiran na-guftah be aur gaye guzre. Jo musafir Bait al-Khala gaye unke liye namaz na mumkin hogayi. Kayi dino ki ghulazat se uthay hue badbudaar kamode, gutter band, yun jaise safai ka rawaj nahi aur koi is zulm ko poochne wala nahi. Jin ka wuzu mahfooz tha unhone zuhr aur asr mila kar parhi. Khana wahi routine, zaiqe aur shakl wala. Hairat hai ke duniya ki ek azem tareen sarak ki ye haalat, khane ka ye maayaar, safai ka ye aalam. Ta-hadd nazar koi abadi nahi, sara rasta police ya sarkar ka koi ahalkar nazar nahi aya. Upar Allah, neeche driver, ab ajnabi musafir kis par sahara kare, kis se gila kare. Raste mein kahin kahin mehdood abadi ke nishan warna ta-hadd nigaah beyaban, khushk veeran, hadt se phati hui siyah chattanain, na chrend na parind. Kafi faslay ke baad koi rasta motorway se nikal kar door pahaariyon mein gum hojata. Aka daka onton ke tawailay. Raste mein kayi buson ne overtake kiya. Bus mein audio samahat, peenay ke paani, first aid naam ki koi aiyashi mojood nahi thi. Hasb-e-mamool driver zaban se ajnabi aur bayaan mein Pakistani sarkari mulazim tha. Wo gaane sunne aur thermos se chai peene mein mahv tha. Kisi ko is se kuch kehne ka yara nahi tha. Madeena sheher ab khaas phail chuka hai. Mukhtalif nayi purani abadion ko phelangti bus kayi hotelon par ruki jahan wo dosre musafiron ko utarti rahi. Aakhir kar ek jagah bus thahri aur musafiron ko utarne aur bus ke tehe khane se apna apna samaan khud nikalne ka hukm mila. Bus ke neeche tehe khane se samaan nikalna bhi ek mushkil mashq hai, jo akelay sar anjam dena parti hai. Is ka ajr alag se muqarrar hai. Madeena mein Madeena ke us hotel mein jahan booking thi wahan jane walay musafiron se abhi kamray khali nahi ho sakte the. Kafi deer lobby mein intezaar kiya. Kuch lambay safar ki thakawat, kuch masjid Nabvi jane ki ajalat, idhar kamray masroof. Ek qareebi hotel mein mutabadil intizam hua. Gunahon ki tarah apna apna samaan le kar kuch ghaseet kar nayi jagah gaye aur ek achay hotel mein thikana mila. Paani, bijli, lift munasib magar khana garam karne aur pakane ke liye chulha thanda. Jaise taise raat guzri. Aglay roz hukm mila ke samaan uthao aur raat wale hotel ko wapas sudharo. Chananche phir hijrat ki. Is pandrah manzilay amarat mein jo bamushkil das marla par istada tha, jis kamray mein thikana mila wahan teen afraad ke liye saat bistar lage hue the. Goya kamra ek bistaristan tha, lekin saat afraad ke liye ek ghusl khana baghair sabun, toliya, chahiye.Pul tooth paste wafir pani ya lootay ke. Aur sari imarat ke liye ek lift jo paanch se zyada musafiron ke aane par ruth jati thi. Safai Pakistani satah ki. Amila aur gas nadard. Kamruon ka bahami aur front desk se rabte ke liye telephone ghayab. Yoon lagta tha jaise ek saraye mein aa gaye hain. Madinah ke koocha wabazar bhi Makkah ki tarah munasib safai aur husn saleeqa ke muntazir the. Gandagi kachray ki farawani nah nazar aane wale footpath siyah fam work kardar ke kinare gaadiyan dhote the. Masjid Nabawi ke andar albata Makkah jaisi safai aur nazafat musnui araish o zibaish manqash dar o deewar rang birange sustoon AC bulb aur qumqamay fanos aur qaleen mojood the. Bohat sare ashab khassoan Pakistanis fajr se isha tak ka sara waqt araam se masjid mein guzarte hain. Sone par koi pabandi nahin hai. Saudi to apni tangain bila tarkad qibla ki taraf pasar lete hain. Shelf door ho to mus'haf bila takalluf farsh par rakh dete hain. Woh jagahen jin ke bare me baaz ahadis aur riwayat ke mutabiq hazaron lakhon guna sawab ki naweid hai zaireen se ati hain. Bande pe bande. Agley pichley tamam hisab chanane ki lagan. Hojoom ke doran sukoon se nafl ada karna kardar hota hai goya sukoon se zyada nekiyon ke calculator par tawajjo hoti hai. Isi tarah mazar mubarak ke samne se guzarna rasta jo janub se shumal ko jata hai zaireen se pata hota hai. Police jaliyon ke samne rukne ya jhukne nah deti. Ahle dil jaliyon ke nazare se dil ko shadab aur eman ko taza kar lete hain. Un ki num nak ankhein hi sab kuch keh deti hain. "Tere khair hovay pehre dara rozay de jali cham leen de!" Masjid Nabawi ka androni pehla sahn khud kar chhatriyon se muzain hai. Iss se aage Riyadh al Jannah hai. Iss sahn mein charon taraf deewaron par sonehari huroof mein naam likhe hue hain. Namon ke andaraj mein woh tarteeb malhuz nahi rakhi gayi jo aam tor par suni masajid mein dekhi jati hai, yani pehle Allah, Muhammad (S.A.W) aur phir khulafaye rashideen. Iss tafreed ke sath sab se zyada hairan kun wo nam the jin ka ma'roof aur wazeh talluq Shia ithna ashari mazhab se hai, yani dozadah aima Shia. In namon mein hazrat Ali, Hasan aur Hussain ke ilawa janab Zain-ul-Abideen, Janab Jafar, Janab Naqi, Janab Taqi, Janab Baqir, Janab Hasan Askari, Janab Musa Kazim (R.A) waghera shamil hain. Jis se bhi is inkishaf ka zikr hua us ne hairat ka izhar kiya, kyunke yeh hazrat sahabi to kahin aur taba tabai mein se bhi nahi the. Un ke taqaddus ki wajah un ki woh imamat hai jiski masoomiyat, wilayat aur tasarruf ke Shia ashab qail hain. Agar yeh nam asakte hain to aalim Islam ke tamam mulkon se darjon ahl-e-ilm aur ahl-e-dil ke asmaa bhi is aizaz ke mustahiq thehrate hain jinho ne Islam aur musalmanon ki be lusht o be pana khidmat sar anjam di hain. Masjid Nabawi ke bahar charon taraf wasee sahn hain. Un par dhoop aur barish se bachao ke liye chhatriyan lagayi hain jo markazi control se phool ki tarah khilti aur kali ki tarah band hoti hain. Bohat se zaireen in ke neeche bethna pasand karte hain. Yahi khur o nosh karte aur yahi bajamaat namazen ada karte hain. Namaz ke baad khas tor par zuhr asr ke baad jagah jagah talaba ke group masjid Nabawi mein nazar ate hain. Ek bari tadad hifz karne wale bachonki hoti hai. koi zaair apne shoq se quran sunana chaahe to moallim ko is khidmat se khushi hoti hai. somwar aur jumeraat walay din aise hain jab madina ke log ek rawayat ke tehath roza rakhte hain. masjid nabvi mein in dino mein iftari ka khaas ehtimam kiya jata hai. maghrib ki azaan se pehle jagah jagah plastic ke dastar khan bich jaate hain. ahl-e-throat aur unke mulaazim disposal plates mein khajoorain, qehwa, khubz (khameeri roti) ma masala aur zam zam ke thermos pour jam rakh dete hain. har kis w nakis ko shamil hone ki dawat hoti hai, kisi ko alag se kehne ya bulane ki zaroorat nahi hoti. hamare haan ki tarah khajoor ke teen chaar daane nahi hote balkay aath das khajoorain hoti hain. iftari ke baad mulaazim jhat pat saman samet te hain. mehman ke bachay jane se pehle chhote se vacuum ke saath zare bhi chun lete hain. yun taa'am rezi ke bawajood haram saaf rehta hai. masjid nabvi ki maghribi janib imam ke aage kamray mein jahan janaaze ke liye laayi gayi meton ko rakha jata hai, gaadi par amala bari mustaidi se kafan posh metin laata hai. janaaze ke baad lawaheqin meton ko apne kandhe par baqi le jaate hain. imam ke barabar imarat ke bahar dono janib siyah patthar se dheri rekhaein lagi hui hain jin se aage khara hone ki manaeat likhi hui hai. madina ke qadeemi qabristan ko saudi hukumat aur shehri baqi kehte hain, jabkeh barsagheer ke zaair usay jannat al-baqi ke naam se yaad karte hain. jannat arzi ka faisla to qiyamat ke baad nazar aayega. asar ke baad is qabristan mein mardon ko jane ki ejazat hoti hai. kache qabristan ke charon taraf jaliyon ki oonchi baarh hai, andar teerhe medhe raste hain, platoun ke andar jo qabrain nazar aati hain woh haaliya doar ki hain. darmiyan mein baaz qabron ki dheeriyan hain jin ke sarhaane kaale patthar daale gaye hain. ghalebann yeh purani qabrain hain. kisi bhi purani qabr ke bare mein koi wusooq se nahi jaanta ke kis mard ya aurat ki hai. haaliya qabrain musalsal roz banti hain kyun ke yeh madina ke rehaishi logon ka qabristan hai. qabristan mein ek satah poori ho jane ke baad naye sare se tadfeen ka amal shuru ho jata hai. yun ek tehadar ya kayi manzila taza qabristan hai. taza qabrain kachi banayi jati hain. gadhay ke neeche deewar se mitti nikal kar met ko us ke andar rakha jata hai. tadfeen ke baad kuch log ek qabr par dua maang rahe the. purani qabron par kisi ko phool phenkte ya dua karte nahi dekha. ek do ahaaton mein zaair dana daalte rahe hain jinhein chagne kabootar aajate hain. shia hazraat syeda fatima ki mazhooma qabar par dabbe dabbe aah wazari ki ibadat karte hain. baqi ke bahar urdu, angrezi aur farsi mein shajra nasab ke zariye bataya gaya hai ke sahaba, khususan sahaba-e-arba'a mein kitni qareebi rishtedaariyan thin. mukhtalif zubano mein pamphlet diye jate hain take log baqi ke aadab ziyarat se waqif hon, qabr ko qabr hi jaanen aur us se ibarat ke siwa kuch aur toqaa na rakhain. bab fahad ke bal-muqabil bironi sahn ke saath ek roadshow exhibition banayi gayi hai. is mein roshni aur khakon ki madad se nabi ﷺ ki hayat tayyiba ke mukhtalif madaaraj dikhaye gaye hain. har tasweer ke saath arabi aur angrezi mein maloomat mandarj hain jin ka ma'azuz bukhari aur muslim ki kitaben hain. qadeem madina ki imarat ki had tak tasawwuri tajsim bhi hai. ghazwa-e-badr mein insaani saaye dikhaye gaye hain. ahd nabawi ke ilawa khulafa-e-khamsa aur digar adwar ki akasi namukammal hai. shayad is liye ke sahihain mein un ke bare mein rawayat mojood nahi hain.Baab Fahd ke saath hi kaafi bulandi par Jama'ah Madina se mansalik Maktabah Masjid Nabawi waqe hai. accelator ke zariye upar jaya jata hai. Ek khoobsurat, aaram daah aur jadeed sahulaton se arasta magar sirf arabi kitabon ki mehdood library. Yahan par to duniya ki tamam zubanon mein seerat par chhipne wali kitabon aur tehreeron aur CDs waghera ka majmu'a hona chahiye aur zaireen ko seerat ki kitabon aur risalon se istifadah karne ki bilamauqoof sahulat hasil honi chahiye. Naat Islami adab ki a'ala tareen sanf hai jis ke zuhoor aur izhar ke liye yahan se behtar jagah kya ho sakti hai? Madina shehr mein bhi zaireen ke pine ke paani ki muft farahmi ke liye kahin filter water plant nahi hai. Yahan bhi "Real do aur pyaas bujhao" ka formula raaj hai. Mukhtalif zubanon mein aam hidaayat aur Direction Guides ki zaroorat mehsoos hoti hai. Haram Ka'bah aur Haram Nabawi doonon masajid mein yeh dekhne mein aata hai ke zaireen bila rok masalsal nawafil ada aur tawaf karte rehte hain. Jagah jagah avezaan barqi ghadiyon par mukhtalif namazon ke waqt to nazar aate hain magar kisi jagah waqt zawal ka indraaj nahi hai. Is bekhudi ke natije mein baaz log hamesha nawafil parhtay paye jaate hain. Tulu, nisf al nahar, gharoob, ishraaq ka zikr to hai magar kahin awabeen ka naam dikhayi nahi deta. Bazaar mein jo samaan dastiyab hai woh badi wafir miqdar mein hai aur China ka hai ya Saudi aur Arab mumalik ka. Musannifat mein Pakistan kisi jagah nazar nahi aata. Saudi products mein har qisam ki dairy, poultry, plastic, khobziat, mashroobat, lahamiyat, cosmetic, sabziat waghera shamil hain. Haramain mein ab-e-zam zam ke plastic ke drum aur paani peenay walay thermos glass bhi Saudiya ke saakhtay hain. Ghilaf Ka'bah bhi maqami tor par tayar hota hai. Saudi saakhtay musannifat ka miyar acha hai agar woh waqai maqami tor par tayar ki gayi hain. Khurdani ashiya par is ke ajza, tareekh tayyari aur tareekh ikhtitam darj hoti hain. Dukanon aur bazaaron mein Saudi bashinday nazar nahi aate, woh haram mein paye jaate hain ya apne gharo mein. Un ko dukanon ka maqool kiraya mil jata hai. Naye qawaneen ke tehat ghair mulkiyon ko apne har karobar mein Saudi bashinday ko shareek banana zaroori hai. Chunancha mizaja, Saudi aaram talab aur sahul kosh hain, woh mehnat se jeetay hain aur din bhar qahwa, khajooron aur samai o basri tafreehat se apna ji behlatay hain, is liye ghair mulki shirkat daar unhe anay ki zahmat se bachanay ke liye unka mahana bhatta unhe pohanchate hain. Dukanon par har jagah aise Saudi huliya logon se sabq parhta hai jo asal mein Pakistan ke kisi hissay se talluq rakhte hain aur roz marra ki arabi rawani se boltay hain. Masjid Haram aur Masjid Nabawi donon mein deewaron, suton aur chaton par rang dar gulkari ki gayi hai. Ghaur se dekhein to in beel buton mein koi paighaam ya afaqi sadaqat naqsh nahi ki gayi hai, jaise neem khandah naqash ke zehan mein jo khayal aaya aur us ne ek khayali phool ghara diya. Zaireen in naqsh o nigaar ko baar baar dekhte hain. Jagah ki ahmiyat ke aitbar se mumkin hota to moyeQalam ke zariye tauheed, risalat aur ma'ad ke fikr ko ujagar kiya jata. Esaaiyat tathlis ko apne tamaddun ke mazahar mein samu'ay rakhti hai, barish se bhi aur hathore se bhi. Hamare deen ke mazahar to afaaq aur anfus mein ayaan hain. Saudiya mein sharai police ka mahkma mojood hai magar bajuz ek jagah ke kahin bhi usay mutaharrik nahi paya. Haram ke andar siyah posh zanana police zaireen mustorat ki aamad-o-raft ko control karti hai. Shehron ke andar zaireen be reham ghair mulki mulazimon aur sakht dil saudiyon ke raham-o-karam par hote hain. Agar saudi police ki koi special force banai jaye jo zaireen ki takaleef aur mushkilat ko sun le aur moqa par azala kar de to halat behtar hojain. Ab kisi aam hotel, dukan, bus, adda, taxi, sadak ghairaz kahin bhi koi mushkil paish aaye to koi aap ki sunne wala nahi hai. Kisi tarah aam police se rabta hojaye to unko Urdu aur angrezi mein samjhana mumkin nahi hota. Khas tor par neem khwandah Pakistani aur digar mumalik ke zaireen ki madad aur rehnumai ke liye khasi help line aur khasi police madad zaroori hai. Yeh police sa'il, masool, talib, matloob aur musafir o muqeem ke mamlaat ko supervise kare. Mumkin ho to jagah jagah aise booths ya kiosks banaye chahiye jahan se zaireen ko rehnumai aur madad mil sake. Madinah mein Bab Jibra'eel ke samne dispenser hai jo namaz ke waqat ke baad khulta hai. Doctor sahib Urdu se na-bald the. Wahan mojood dawaien kisi mulk ka atiya thi aur ma'arif lagti thi. Tees second mein mareez farigh ho raha tha, jin ki bahar lambi qataar thi, mard alag aur auratein alag. Ek chhupa hua form tha jismein shikayat aur mumkinah dawaien likhi hui thi. Mareez ka naam aur umr wagaira ka khana khali rehta sirf takleef ki satar par aur us ki likhi hui dawa par doctor sahib takarte the. Sath dispenser se dawa mil jati thi. Makkah mein aisi koi sahulat nazar nahi aayi. Aisi dispenserain jagah jagah honi chahiye, khas tor par bade darwazon ke aas paas. Saudiya mein dawaien khasi mehngi hain magar Pakistan ki tarah drug store se bila rok mil jati hain. Makkah musalmanon ke liye tauheed, wahdat aur ittehad ka mazhar hai. Yahan ek museum ya markaz ki zarurat hai jismein ek taraf mukhtalif zubanon mein Islami kitabon aur kaili grafai ka zakhira ho aur dosri taraf alam Islam ke tamadduni, tehzebi aur ilmi sarmaye ke namune ikhate hon, maslan tameerat, malbusat, sike, zarof, alat-e-harb jin se qurbat ke ilawa bahmi taaruf mein bhi madad milegi. Makkah mein ek minbar ke khateeb ne raqam ko ihram ki chadar par himayani numa belt bandhe dekha to use door se haram haram qarar diya. Dilchasp baat yeh hai ke lafz haram saudi ghairatun najaiz ya mamnoo ke liye istemal karte hain. Hamare han yeh lafz shiddat balke kili mani tak ka izhar karta hai. Pakistani aur ghair mulki zaireen ghairatun tamam ke tamam belt ihram ke upar hi bandhe hue the. Zyada tar is liye ke un ki dhotiyan kamar par tiki rahi. Is amr se zahir hota hai ke saudi ulama bhi tang nazarri aur ta'asub ka shikar hain jo apne mazhab ke fikr par israr karte hain, kisi aur fikr ya ikhtilaf ko rawa nahi samajhte. Haram mein to har fikr ka izhar hota hai aur har fikr Islam ka aur uswa-e-sahaba ka aaeena dar hai.Zaireen khasosan Pakistan se anay walay musafirin ki ek maqool tadad aisi bhi hoti hai jo baar baar umrah karne ati hai. Yeh takrar ghair zaroori sahi lekin is ke bawajood umrah un ke ander deen ke tawaqo aur daiye bidaar nahi karta. Watan se rawangi, doran-e-safar, haram ke andar, haram ke bahar, koocha o bazaar, hotel aur dukan ghairat kisi bhi jagah zaireen ki maloomat aur tarbiyat ke liye koi ahtamaam nazar nahi ata, na muallimon ka aur na in ke agents ka, hukoomaton ki taraf se aur na alma ka janib se. Haram ke andar aur masjid Nabvi ke bahar kabhi kabhi Urdu ke chand pamphlet milte hain jo nakafi hain. Masjid ke andar koi minbar ya masalla aisa nahi hai jahan zaire apni zuban mein umrah ka maqsad jaan sake aur apni zindgiyon mein koi nazar anay wali tabdeeli peda kar sake. Umrah ka safar, mushqat, mehnat aur thakan mein hajj se chand hi darje kam hota hai, khasosan jab masjid haram mein dakhil hote waqt foran tawaf ki koshish ki jaye aur haram mein qayam din raat ki kai namazon par mohayat ho. Is surat mein thakan, bhok, kamzori aur bachon ki yaad khasosan jab woh chhotay ya dependent hote hain, bohat sabr azma aur himmat wala kam ban jata hai. Is azimat se zahir hai ajr bhi kai guna aur sila bhi be inteha hoga. Haram ka kaif ek sahr hai, goya ek aasmani taqat hai jo har jazbati past o bala ko hamwar bana deti hai. Safar ke doran sabr, hosla, bardasht, hamdardi, eethar zaroori hain. Group mein mizaj aur mood par control karna hota hai aur dosray saathiyo ka khayal rakhna parta hai. Makkah Madinah mein maghribi tehzeb ka asar yeh dekhne mein aya hai ke khane ki ek bohat badi miqdar falatoo bach jati hai. Isay farakh dili se kooday daan ki nazar kar diya jata hai. Rotiyan salim ki salim kachray ki nazar hoti hain. Awwal to kharidar se pooch kar kam size ya kam miqdar mein roti bechni chahiye. Doam jo bach jaye is ke liye mukhtalif rang ke disposal plastic bags hon takay unko behtar istemal mein laya ja sake. Is tarah jungli kabootron ki khidmat ke liye gandum, jo, bajra, chawal aur dalon ki kaseer miqdar zaya hoti hai. Sheher ke kabootar anaj kha kha kar Pakistan ki tajir ashrafiya ki tarah nazar ate hain. Saudiya mein sadqa o khairat ko jama karne aur mustahqeen mein bantne ka koi intizam nazar nahi aya. Bheek ka yeh aalam hai ke tawaf ke doran ek kala mazoorah jama ke darmiyan farsh par ghiste raha tha. Tawaf karne wale bajaye azkar ke is par riyalon ki barish kar rahe the. Halat yeh thi ke bhekari ki jebain bhar bhar jati thin. Qareeb mein mojood us ka koi mulazim unhein khali kar deta takay dard o dehshat ko jagah ki qillat na pesh aaye. Pakistani zaire bojhala ghurbat haram ke ander aur bahar khordani ashya dhondte phirte the. Aise tamam mustahqeen ke taam o taaam, wapsi ticket, naqad imdad aur digar zaruriat ke liye sirf intizam ki zaroorat hai, dene wale haath la tadad. Khana Kaba mein loud speaker ka nihayat aala intizam hai. Kisi bhi namaz ke baad Saudi dua nahi mangte. Yeh kaam woh namaz par chord dete hain jo khud sarapa dua hai. Hamare han itni lambi dua mangi jati hai aur Allah talla ko itni bar pukar pukaR kar yaad dilaya jata hai ke haath thak jaate hain aur dimagh akhbari khabron aur zati zarooriyat ki taraf bhatk jaata hai. Har namaz ke baad dono masajid mein foot shudagan ke ikatthe janaze parhay jaate hain. Kisi bhi jagah masjid ya doraan-e-janaza ya qabristan mein kalma-e-shahadat ka wird nahi suna. Shayad iss liye ke mar jaane wala to ab dohraane ki saadat se mehroom ho chuka. Arab khaas tor par Salat-ul-Janaza ahtamaam se ada karte hain. Janaza ke baad teen surten aur Alhamd ke saath Fatiha parhne ka rawaj nahi hai, balkay namaz janaza ke baad alag se dua nahi mangte. Wajah yeh hai ke namaz janaza hai hi saari ki saari duaen maghfirat. Masjid Nabawi mein Allah, Allah Akbar, kalma-e-tayyaba aur ayaat nihayat kasrat se tehreer hain. Baaz jagahon par sahaba-e-karam ke naam hain, lekin tamam imarat par Aal-e-Saud ke namon ka qabza hai. Halankeh tail dharti ka hai, mulk awaam ka hai aur ghar to hai hi Allah ka. Mus'haf ke tamam nuskhon par lazmaan Aal-e-Saud hi ka naam darj hota hai. Sarkari maktabe mein Pakistan ke ahl-e-hadees ulama ki Urdu kitaben hain, baqi masalik ke ulama is aizaz se mehroom hain. Yeh bhi ek noor ki farqah bandi aur tang nazari hai, keunke 97 feesad Pakistani zaireen Hanafi maslak hain. Pakistani ek sada dil magar rang-baaz qaum hai. Neki ke har kaam mein uski niyat achi hoti hai magar us kaam ke tareeqe aur karne ke andaaz raste se hattte chale jaate hain. Umra aur Hajj par jane ke liye woh jhoot, fareb aur chakkar sab kuch rava rakhte hain. Namahram khawateen ke farzi mahram bhi ban jaate hain. Unhein Hijaz ke safar par jane se pehle taleem-o-tarbiyat aur hidayat-o-rahnemai ki shade zaroorat hai. Yeh kaam to ulama ka hai magar woh khud fiqhi asaaleeb ke paband aur apne muqtadiyon ki khushnoodi ko muqaddam rakhte hain. Pakistani Islam ya Pakistani Musalman ke chand manazir mulaheza hon: - Khanah Ka'bah mein ek sahib namaz parh rahe thay aur unhone apna rukh maghrib ki taraf kar rakha tha. Yun un ka chehra batari Ka'bah nahi tha, balkay iss se nawe (90) darjah hat kar tha. Ek khadim ke batane par raqam ne unhein tawajjo dilayi. - Ek sahib haram ke andar poochh rahe thay ke Khanah Ka'bah kahan hai? - Baqiya se tadfeen dekh kar loot raha tha. Agay ek ma'azuz numa topi posh ja rahe thay. Woh sahib achanak yun neeche jhuke jaise apne joote ko durust karne lage hon. Unhone jaldi se qabristan se chand patthar uthaye aur jhat se waste ki jeb mein daal liye aur chal diye. - Masjid Nabawi mein iftari ke liye mukhtaar log dastar khuwan bichhate hain. Khane ke baad khajoorain, qahwa aur khubz bach jaate hain. Karkun baad mein iftari karte hain. Ek hum-watan jis ke paas pehle hi khajoorain aur khubz wafir miqdaar mein jama thi, karkun ke gird hogaya. Karkun ne qadre toqif ke baad dono ashiya ke tobre samne kardiye. Hairat ke hamare musafir ne seer hokar cheezein nikali aur batoor-ehsan thodi miqdar un ke hawale ki. Ghar Allah ka, hamsaaya'gi Rawdah Rasool ki, mehman koi aur. Be takallufi ke kiya kahne! - Zamzam peene ka intizaam to Haramain ke andar bohot aala hai.Aur wasee pemaane par hai. Baray darwazon ke bahar bhi zam zam ki toontiyan lagi hui hain, lekin wahan se baray kin aur badi botlon ko tang dhaar toonti se bharana sirf hamare hum-watan hi kar sakte hain. * Agarche Makah aur Madinah ki masajid mein bohot sare wajibat aur mustahabat aise hote hain jin se Pakistan ke Hanafi khasosan Deobandi, Barelvi maa'nus nahin hain. Baaz amal hamare han izafi kiye jaate hain, lekin kisi Pakistani ko jamaat se alag namaz parhte, marzi ke a'maal baja late ya apna muqarrar wazifah ya awrda mus'haf parhte nahi dekha. Yeh aik achi baat hai ke kahin to ham qanoon ki pasdari karte hain. Allah ka nahi to Saudi shurutay ka lihaz karte hain. * Char buzurg dehaati zaireen ka group nazar aya jin ke bustaron ke sath plastic ke lote mazbooti se bandhe hue the aur kaghazat un ki dhootiyon ki dabbon mein. * Dhooti aik ba'izzat pehnawa hai. Bohat si qoumain tehband bandhti hain. Pakistaniyon ko sirf itni hidayat darkar hai ke isay ba-parda bandhein. * Kayi deewaron par haath ki photo naqal aur baaz jagahon par Urdu mein ishtihar chhapay dekhe. Baaz par kisi buzurg ki tasweer bhi hoti thi. Munh khula hua, ankhain band ya mota sheesha, haddiyon ka dhaancha, chadar ghutnon tak. Yeh talash gumshuda hai aur sab ke sab arz-e-paak ke mehman hain. Aise zai'foon ki hifazat ka behtar intizam bhi kiya ja sakta hai. Magar yeh kaam wazart-e-hajj ka hai aur booking karne wale Pakistani aur Saudi safri agents ka ke mehman ko gum na hone dein warna gumshudgi se bachne ke liye mukammal shanakht ka intizam karein. * Hotel ki deewar par kisi travel agent ne apna number chhupaya tha ke Makah Mukarramah ki ziyarat karein. Chananche is se rabita hua aur das riyal fi zaire ke hisab se tour tay hoa. Is tarah thore waqt ke liye Ahad, Qiblatayn, Qaba, Thor, Hira aur maqamat-e-hajj (Arafat, Muzdalifah, Mina, Jabal Rahmah wagaira) dekhne ka mauqa mila. Tour guide ko ek Saraiki naujawan tha jo halaat aur waqiaat mein apni rawayat aur apne jazbat bhi shamil kar raha tha. Use tokna pada ke khud-sakhta baaton ko ibadat aur ziyarat ka hissa na banaye. Jagah jagah zaireen ke jhand nazar aate hain jo har cheez ko aqeedat aur mohabbat se dekhte hain aur apne a'ina-e-dil mein basa lete hain. Jabal Rahmah ke daman mein turk zaireen ka guide koi wa'az tha jo poori tarah apne sami'een ko mash'hoor kar raha tha. Go tamam maqamat in ayyam mein veeran aur be aabadi nazar aate hain taham zaireen ke liye baithne ki koi jagah, peenay ka pani ya washroom maujood nahi hain. Ahad ke paas ghusl khana dhoondna pada. Ek masjid ko ta'ra ke wahan sahulat mil jayegi magar woh muqaffal thi aur koi mulaazim paas maujood nahi tha. Jab ek sarkari ghusl khana mila to us ki ghulazat, badboo aur nakari ne paspai par majboor kar diya. Safai ka koi intizam nahi tha. Gutter ubal rahe the. Nazdeek koi supervisor ya amila maujood nahi tha. Rastay mein guide ne bataya ke aaj kal ek nayi jagah daryaft hui hai jise Wadi-e-Jinn kehte hain. Wahan gaadi engine chalaye aur gear lagaye baghair khud hi rawan hojati hai. Isi ke mutabiq Saudi khush the ke unhe kamaai ke liye ek aur SITE mil gaya hai. Is ajeeb mazahire ki haqeeqat kya hai, is ki tehqiq ke liye agle umra ka intezar karna parega. Haram ke andar hukoomat ne ek ‘‘Shoba Irshad’’ banaya hai. Phone par ya zati rabte ke zariye mazhabi masaail ka hal poocha jasakta hai. Bab Abdul Aziz ke andar dono taraf mutadid phone latke hue hain. Mein ne barha try ki ’Sirf ek bar arbi mein jawab mila. Jab dono taraf nasamjhi hi zaban thehri to mazeed kya sitam dhaate. Ek roz haram mein ghalti se kisi aur raaste se nikalte hue ittefaqan shoba ka daftar mil gaya. Wahan aqal posh siyah reesh nojawan se baat hui to woh Urdu aur English se naubald the. Taham meri darkhwast par ek sahib se milwaya jo English bol sakte the. Raqam ne un se doosre teesre umre mein halq ka masla poocha. Paanchon namazon mein farzoon ke ilawa kitni rakaat mazeed parhni darkar hai? Isnaaye guftagu mein ne Hanafi mamool ka batana chaha to kehne lage ‘‘Main aap ko hadees ke mutabiq nawafil bata raha hoon’ Aap fiqh Hanafi ki baat kar rahe hain.’’ Unhein bata na saka ke fiqh Hanafi ki asas bhi to ahadees par mabni hai. Aaima fuqaha apne paas se to nahi keh rahe. Yeh andaz-e-fikr haramain ke ulama mein aam hai ‘jaise un ke paas jo maloomat hain wahi sahih manabe se hain. Halanke haram mein har musalman apne ilm aur fehm ke mutabiq to islami hidayat aur ahkamat par hi amal karta hai. Ibadat aur aamal o azkar ke yeh tareeqe zair apne watan mein apne ulama se hi seekh kar ata hai. Saudiya ke safar saadat ki kefiyaat aur waredaat naqabil byan hoti hain. Yeh ek rohani safar hai. Ek fard ka apne rab aur rasool aur un ke sath mohabbat o aqeedat ka mamla hai’ isay share nahi kiya jasakta. Safar mein qayam o ta'am ki mushkilat ko kisi had tak bardasht kiya jasakta hai halanke ab yeh ek karobari mamla hai. Hum ada karte hain aur tajir agents se apni halal ki kamai ke badle taye shuliat chahate hain. Magar jo zillat aur ruswai Saudi Arab se lootte waqt jeddah airport par hui woh Saudi hukmaraon ke huzoor sajdah reez Pakistani hukmaranon aur hamare mulazim safarat karoon ki be hissi aur bad amli se shadeed hojati hai. Jaise Pakistani kisi azad musalman mulk ke bashinday nahi hain. Jaise woh safar par apna kharch nahi karte’ Saudiya ki khairaat par palte hain. Jaise Pakistaniyon ka koi wali waris ya ghairat mand leader nahi hai. PIA ki wapsi ki flight raat das baje ki thi. Zaireen zam zam aur khajooron ke saman se lade phande barwaqt airport pahunchaye aur thode waqt mein immigration se farigh hogaye. Agla marhala custom clearance aur saman ki screening ka tha. Zaire Saudi Arab ke do muqaddar shehron ki ziyarat aur wahan ibadat ke baad laut rahe the. Un ke saman mein zam zam aur khajooron ke ilawa plastic ke khilone’ tasbeehain aur perfume hi hosakte the’ manshiyat ya aslaha to nahi hosaktatha. Magar wahan ek lambi line thi check hone walay ki. Ek mardon ki doosri aurton ki. Dono qataaron mein auratein aur buzurg zyada the. Yeh sab kayi ghante musalsal khade rahe. Line dheere dheere aage khisakti rahi. Hall ke andar saman ki screening machines thein jinhein Bangla deshi mulazim chala rahe the. Un ke ooper do boardi Saudi nojawan the jo afsarana tamtaraq ke saath kursiyon par barajman the aur be hussi aur be izzati ke Pakistani manazir se lutf andoz ho rahe the. Bangla deshi mulazimon ka rawiya had darja hattak aamiz 'gustakhiya aur behuda tha. Un par dhooti posh buzurgon ko dhake de rahe the. Amli tor par un ka dasti saman cheen rahe the. Jo boorhi aurat galay mein hamaeelay thelay utarne mein hichkchaht ka izhar karti Bangla deshi is aurat ko ghaseet kar is ka thela machine mein phenkte. Ek baarish buzurg ki jeb se sara saman nikalwaya ‘phir un ki topi utrawayi’ jootay utrawaye’ aankhon se ainakain utrwa kar machine mein.N dalain phir buzurg scanner se guzre. Is drama mein be izzati aur be bassi ki inteha thi. Saudi afsaran in nazaron se mahzooz ho rahe the. Dilchasp baat yeh ke is section mein passport ya ticket kisi cheez par koi dastakhat nahi kiye jaate the. Sirf musafiron aur un ke samaan ki physical screening ho rahi thi. Line aahista aahista srakti rahi aur zaireen Saudi aur shareef hakamranon ko duaen dete rahe. Ek senior za'eer ne Bangladeshi mulazmeen ke ghalt bartao par tokka to Saudi afsaran apne mulazmeen ke tahaffuz par uth khade hue. Unhone ihtijaj karne wale zaire ko hall se bahar bhej diya aur hukum diya ke woh clearance ke liye sab se aakhir mein aaye. Khuda khuda karke jahaz mein sawar hue to hawai jahaz chalne se inkaar. Darwaze band, AC band, shadeed ghatan. Kafi intezar ke baad pilot ne ilan kiya ke woh to tayar hai, "Saudi Tower se rawangi ke liye ijaazat ka intezar hai." Dedh do ghante ke jan gusl intezar ke baad flight rawana ho saki. Rawangi mein bila jaz taakhir hamari azziyat mein akhri izafa tha. Is habs intezar ke doran bohot sare zaireen par galey ki bimariyon ne hamla kiya jo loot kar kayi haftay tari raha.